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A suit is a set of men’s wear comprising a suit jacket and trousers. When of identical textileand worn with a collared dress shirtnecktieand dress shoesit is traditionally considered informal wear in Western dress codes.
The lounge suit originated in the 19th-century as casual sports and country wear in Britain. After replacing the black frock coat in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit.
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A darker, understated lounge suit for professional occasions became known as a business suit. Suits are offered in different designs and constructions.
Cut, and cloth, whether two- or three-piece, single- or double-breasted, vary, in addition to various accessories.
A two-piece suit has a jacket and trousers, a three-piece suit adds a waistcoat known as a vest in North America.
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Informal suits has thus been traditionally worn with a fedoraa trillbyor a flat cap. Other accessories include handkerchiefsuspenders or beltwatchand jewelry.
Other notable types of suits are the semi-formal dinner suit black tie and the black lounge suit strollerboth which arose as less formal alternatives to the formal dress coat for white tieand the morning coat with formal trousers for morning dressrespectively.
Originally, suits were always tailor -made from the client’s selected cloth.
These are now known as bespoke suits, custom-made to measurements, taste, and style preferences. Since the s, most suits are mass-produced ready-to-wear garments.
Currently, suits are offered in roughly four ways:.
As a suit in this sense covers all or most of the wearer’s body, the term “suit” was extended to a single garment that covers all or most of the body, such as boilersuitsdiving suitsand spacesuits see Suit disambiguation.
The current styles, founded in the industrial revolution during the late 18th century, sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the British Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era.
In the late 19th century, it was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise to the modern lounge suit. Brooks Brothers is generally credited with first offering the “ready-to-wear” suit, [ citation needed ] a suit which was sold already manufactured and sized, ready to be tailored.
It was Haggar Clothing that first introduced the concept of suit separates in the US, the concept of separately sold jackets and trousers, which are widely found in the marketplace today.
There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments, and the details of a suit. The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette so a jacket need not be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose.
A proper garment is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start.
The two main cuts are 1 double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two columns of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and 2 single-breasted suits, in which the sides overlap very slightly, with a single column of buttons.
Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas rack suits are often padded to reduce labour.
More casual suits are characterised by less construction and tailoring, much like the sack suita loose American style.
The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring. Rumples can be pressed out. For interim fittings, “Rock Of Eye” which means trained freehand based on an experienced artistic eye to match the item to the wearer, trusting the eye over unyielding scripted approachdrawing and cutting inaccuracies are overcome by the fitting.
Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsteds where the fibres are combed before spinning to produce a smooth, hard wearing cloth and woollens where they are not combed, thus remaining comparatively fluffy in texture.
These can be woven in a number of ways producing flanneltweedgabardineand fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feels, and some fabrics have an S or Super S number describing the fineness of the fibres measured by average fibre diameter, e.
Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fibre have made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple.
Wool fabric is denominated by the weight of a one-square yard piece; thus, the heavier wools, suitable for winter only, are 12—14 oz.
In the days before central heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz.
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Other materials are used sometimes, either alone or blended with wool, such as cashmere. Synthetic materials, while cheaper, e.
At most, a blend of predominantly wool may be acceptable to obtain the main benefit of synthetics, namely resistance to wrinkling, particularly in garments used for travel; however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise, will always be warmer and clammier than wool alone.
The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns.
In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs.
In summer, lighter shades such as tan or cream are popular.
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For non-business use tweed has been popular since Victorian times, and still is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey.
While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers trousers of different cloth.
The most conventional suit is a 2- or 3-button and either medium to dark grey or navy. Other conservative colours are greys, black, and olive.
White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the warm season. Red and the brighter greens are usually considered “unconventional” and “garish”.
Tradition calls for a gentleman’s suit to be of decidedly plain colour, with splashes of bright colour reserved for shirts, neckties or kerchiefs.
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In the United States and the United Kingdom, around the start of the 20th century, lounge suits were never traditionally worn in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear [11] including dinner jackets or strollersand for undertakers.
However, the decline of formal wear since the s and the rise of casual wear in s allowed the black suit to return to fashion, as many designers began wanting to move away from the business suit toward more fashion suits.
Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pin stripes ; [12] windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now too.
The colour of the patterned element stripes, plaidsand checks varies by gender and location.
For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in the US, while they continue to be worn as traditional in Britain.
Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere. Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner liningthere is a layer of sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent the wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made.
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Expensive jackets have a floating canvaswhile cheaply manufactured models have a fused glued canvas. Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and four or more buttons are unusual.
Dinner jackets “black tie” usually have only one button. It is rare to find a suit with more than four buttons, although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length.
There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, [18] since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket.
The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline. It usually crosses naturally with the left side to the fore but not invariably.
Generally, a hidden button holds the underlap in place. Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs.
Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the s and 70s, as many as eight were seen.
Six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line the ‘keystone’ layout or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square.
A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square.
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For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger. The jacket’s lapels can be notched also called “stepped”peaked “pointed”shawl, or “trick” Mandarin and other unconventional styles.
Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels, the most common of the three, are usually only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style.
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They are distinguished by a 75 to 90 degree ‘notch’ at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels are often found on single breasted jackets as well.
Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits.
In the s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular with power suits and the New Wave style.
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In the late s and s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked lapel jacket. This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the s, [ citation needed ] and is still a recognised alternative.
The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.
The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The s and s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late s and most of the s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion.
The s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge the point on the jacket that forms the “notch” or “peak” between the collar and front lapel.
Current mids trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel with a flower just on the leftwhile single-breasted suits have just one on the left.
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted “besom” pockets.
The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket.
A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on formalwearsuch as a dinner jacket.
A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a pocket square or handkerchief can be displayed. In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide.
While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits.
Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while hacking.
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